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As a young graduate student in marine biology, especially seaweeds, I was able to present research from our team at the Pacific Science Congress in Tokyo, Japan, and at the First European Symposium on Marine Biology on the island of Helgoland in the German North Sea. This gave me the opportunity to visit Bahá'í communities in the Far East and teach about the Bahá'í Faith between 16 August and 5 October 1966, and also visit some friends and discover something about the countries and their people. I took many pictures, falling in love with Japanese gardens, and also wrote a daily journal, long forgotten, upon which this account is based. Some explanatory additions (and scientific names of marine algae) are in italics. The figures for costs show how much prices have changed since then.
Tuesday 16 August 1966 – Hawaiian Baha’i Summer School
Flights Monterey-San Francisco-Honolulu, arrived in Honolulu after delays in both flights.
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Met by Paul Thiele and taken to Baha’i Summer School of Hawaii, at Vanaikapono Elementary School, was briefly introduced that evening, saw slides of Haifa and Australian Temple, heard talk by Hand of the Cause Ugo Giacheri, then to bed in boys dorm.
Wednesday 17 August 1966
Some Baha'is I met included Florence Kelly, niece of Hand of the Cause Leroy Ioas, Geoffrey Aloiau, Victor Fosdar, Bill and Lea Smitz.
At Hawaiian Baha’i Summer School, up at 6:00am, devotions 6:30, went to class taught by Dr. Wolf; I taught class for 11-15 year old youth on problems and solutions (esp. independent investigation, drinking and evolution).
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Also collected seaweeds from rocks in front of school, relatively sparse, but Padina common and iridescent.
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Walked along beach after lunch with a few others and watched boys planing on board on wet sand into waves with complete disregard for life and limb, also along were … Odell and Micronesian who declared in evening.
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After return had shower, mangos (delicious) and dinner.
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Meal at the summer school with Hand of the Cause Dr. Giacheri
Played soccer with boys after dinner, got 2 blisters and sprained left knee.
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Evening meeting had talk by Dr. Giacheri for youth, and declaration of Micronesian, then Hawaiian singing until bed. The spirit here is wonderful, so many beautiful people, so many colors; see beautiful Hawaiians, some with names like Kleinschmidt; singing was wonderful and very genuine; met too many people to list, went to bed exhausted.
Thursday 18 August 1966
At Hawaiian Summer School, taught youth class again, around UHJ youth message. Then taken around Oahu by Mrs. Thiele. We visited the graves of the great Baha'i teacher Martha Root, and Elizabeth Muther, the first person in Hawai'i to accept the Faith from Hand of the Cause Agnes Alexander, who became a Baha'i in 1900 and brought the Baha'i Faith to Hawaii, Japan and Korea. We also stopped at the National Baha'i Center.
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Graves of Elizabeth Muther and Martha Root
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National Baha'i Center of Hawaii
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Beautiful view from a pass behind Honolulu.
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Then down on North side of island to Sea Life Park, saw porpoise performance on cooperation with scuba divers.
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Then to University of Hawaii, Dr. Doty their marine algae specialist away but talked with Roy Tsuda his student, who will be going to Minnesota, also Dr. Isabella Abbott who taught the marine algae course I took at Hopkins Marine Station in 1964.
After dinner, another excellent talk by Dr. Giacheri, more singing, to bed on army cot.
Friday 19 August 1966 - Kauai
Baha'is met on Kauai included Serrita and Leonard Herbert, Gunnar Luth, Craig Quick, André Anjimini.
Left Baha’i school right after breakfast with Florence Kelley to airport, short flight to Kauai; called Serrita Herbert, she sent Gunnar Luth to pick me up, went to hotel, but full, had found another room, then to Herberts, met two sons, then to Eleele for interview on station KUAI by Craig Quick (also Baha’i), talked mostly about seaweeds and trip, 3 Baha’is work at station. Then invited to testimonial dinner honoring Miss Hawaii 1966 and new Miss Kauai with André and Craig, then dance, nearly danced with Miss Hawaii but sprained knee excuse, did actually try my first rock and roll at end (insistence of Miss Kauai), returned late for bed at André Anjimini’s.
Saturday 20 August 1966
Arose early, breakfast with André, Craig and Gunnar, then Craig Quick took me to Waimea Canyon and Kakee Valley, very beautiful, took many slides.
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My guide, Craig Quick
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Also leeward side of island, then lunch.
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Called Keith Robinson a high school classmate, he picked me up, to his beautiful home, met his mother, then saw part of ranch and taken on superb tour of windward side by jeep; interesting to talk with Keith, is very conservative politically but very nice.
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Island is superb, still largely unspoiled thanks to Robinsons, etc. Must come back again. Dinner with Keith at hotel, caught in squall, then to airport, flew to Honolulu 9:00, to Halekulani Hotel and to bed.
Sunday 21 August 1966 - Honolulu-Tokyo
Up latish (8:00), pleasant breakfast on terrace overlooking Waikiki, repacked, no time to swim.
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To airport and off for Tokyo, crossed international dateline.
Monday 22 August 1966 – Pacific Science Congress
Landed in Tokyo right after typhoon, everything wet, hot, humid.
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To Hotel New Otani, got Congress information, slides for paper arrived, movie of the underwater kelp forest of Anacapa Island in California is in customs at Post Office.
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Went to reception in hotel in evening, met Drs. Oberlander, Pappenfuss, Hollenberg, Abbott, Feldmann, Starr, Nakamura, Arasaki, etc. (all famous specialists on marine algae); then went over paper and slides which I shall give Wednesday, and to bed.
Tuesday 23 August 1966
First session of papers very interesting, met many people (M. Chihara, R.W. Nelson (student of Starr), Hasegawa), returned to Hotel for lunch, then by subway to Post Office for film, was not there, to airport by cab, finally got film through customs after long inspection; to hotel for dinner, and to bed after reviewing paper. Had nice talk with Dr. Jens Clausen of Carnegie Institution of Stanford, and Mather.
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Dr Isabella Abbott; Dr George Pappenfuss
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Dr George Hollenberg; Dr V J Chapman of New Zealand
Prof Dr Jean Feldmann of France
Wednesday 24 August 1966
Today very hot and humid; papers again in morning, mine went well despite not knowing until just before that movie could not be shown; I had chosen substitute slides last night. Dr. Pappenfuss ran on too long, but good paper.
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Dr George Hollenberg, chair; Dr Velazquez of Philippines
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Dr Max Doty of Hawaii; Dr V J Chapman
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Dr George Pappenfuss; Prof Jean Feldmann
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Dr Richard Starr; audience
International Phycological meeting afterwards. Lunch at University Student Center, talked with Dr. T. Tanaka at lunch, he requested material of Macrocystis, he is working on Padina. To bookstore, bought book on seaweeds (Segawa); given thesis by Pham-Hoang Ho of Vietnam. Walked in garden at Otani, then by subway to Korakuen Garden for informal party for phycologists, all signed cards, talked.
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Excellent dinner with speeches, etc.; talked with Yoshio Hasegawa, who is cultivating Laminarians; then returning by subway with Drs. Chapman, Hollenberg, etc., to Dr. Abbott’s room with Dr. Wollaston, Doty, etc. to see slides by Fumio Hayashida, diving studies of Eisenia, etc., and to bed.
Thursday 25 August 1966 – visit to Hand of the Cause Agnes Alexander
Left passport at Korean Embassy for visa, then to Isetan Department Store, looked around, got prices for cameras, etc., then to hotel by subway for lunch. To hospital after getting passport, visited Agnes Alexander (Ruth Wallbridge, Baha’i nurse), she is wonderful, talked about many things, played tape from Ruhiyyih Khanum. For the story of Agnes Alexander, see the separate page on this website.
Agnes Alexander on her 91st birthday 21 July 1966, the month before my visit, with nurse Ruth Wallbridge
To hotel, dinner of raw fish, squid and sea urchin gonads in seaweed. Met Phillip Marangella, talked, another dinner of spaghetti. To Baha’i Center, lovely old house, returned and to bed.
Friday 26 August 1966
Up late, got Chinese (Taiwan) visa at embassy, returned to hotel; wrote postcards to nurses at UCSB, Mrs. Bruce our childhood babysitter, Larry Liddle (fellow graduate student at UCSB), Tom Hitzl former Stanford roommate, Maymay (grandmother) (with thankyou), Morissons (Gary and Gayle, fellow Baha'i students at UCSB), Baha’is on Kauai, Keith Robinson. Lunch, went to main post office to buy stamps, got 45 of each, plus some for mail, cost $60; then to camera store (Hero Camera Co. Ltd), bought Nikonos (#124446) $67.00, flash attachment, slide copier, case, close-up lenses, polarizing filter, waist level viewfinder, $35.00, returned via subway at rush hour, not too bad; dinner; wrote letter to Dr. Neushul (my doctoral supervisor at UCSB).
Saturday 27 August 1966 – Tokyo Baha’i Center, Hand of the Cause Mr. Tarazullah Samandari
Breakfast with Dr. Abbott and Dr. Wollaston; more papers on algae, had nice talk with Dr. G.A. Prowse, lunch with Dr. Starr and R.W. Nelson, his student; also talked to Dr. Hirose.
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Dr Luigi Provasoli; Drs Wollaston, Hollenberg and Provasoli
Returned to hotel, caught up in diary, wrote long letter to family after receiving one from them, closed with note on impending doom of U.S. Dinner, then left by cab for Tokyo Baha’i Center, got badly lost, took 1 hour (houses in Tokyo are numbered in the order in which they were built); quite a few Baha’is there, Hand of the Cause Mr. Tarazullah Samandari arrived late but gave excellent introductory talk translated from Persian to English, then into Japanese; started with God and religion, proof of existence by effects, then principles, illustrated with beautiful analogies; afterwards photographs taken, I was introduced by Phillip Marangella and Mr. Samandari hugged me. Indescribable elation of that evening.
Sunday 28 August 1966
To Imperial Hotel to catch “Seven Wonders” tour; hotel is really rather ugly, but has some good ideas and layout; might look better if well cared for – in a different setting.
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Imperial Hotel designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, only modern building in Tokyo to survive the 1923 earthquake; its garden
Tour was very good, had older man, art expert as guide, only nine people, went to Atagoyama Hill steps and Shinto shrine with nice small garden, Rakanji Temple, Buddhist, with 500 carved wooded statues of monks, etc., observed reading of sutra by priestess; then to Furosato restaurant for lunch in restored 300 year old farm house; saw folkcraft museum with beautiful collection, bought calendar, book; then to Toshugo Shrine with many stone and bronze lanterns, beautiful gilded buildings, pagoda; also to Jomoin Temple, which is modern, of concrete, but has garden with 84,000 statues of Jizo (protector of children); finally beautiful Teppozu Inari shrine for Shinto ceremony with music and dance.
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Monday 29 August 1966 – recording Agnes Alexander
To section on conservation in morning, several people from IUCN, etc., lunch at university, then meeting of Pacific botanists, then subcommittees of standing committee on botany, Pacific Science Association. Had to leave early, taxi to hospital to visit Agnes Alexander, Mrs. Barbara Sims was there, had brought tape recorder so could try to get tape requested by NSA of U.S. First Agnes wanted to read it, but after several starts she got going and we got 1 ½ hours of stories: early teaching in Japan, her coming to Japan, how she became a Baha’i, reading of tablets from Abdu’l-Baha, opening of Korea, etc. For more of her story, see the separate page on this website. She is wonderful. Unfortunately some background noise from fan on microphone. Mrs. Sims dropped me off at hotel. Prayed. Chinese dinner, then to Baha’i Center; taxi again got lost, but I know all places to get lost, and could find way. Nice deepening class at Center from Divine Art of Living, met Mike Hagerty, Baha’i, formerly DLI at Monterey, begged for publicity info from U.S.
Tuesday 30 August 1966 – field trip to Enoshima Island
Up early, breakfast and to Shinjuku Station with Drs Pappenfuss, Chapman, Velasquez, train on phycology field trip to Enoshima Island near Kamakura; collected along rocks beyond breakwater on other side of Yacht Club from bridge; what a pleasure to collect with many of the world’s greatest phycologists, got good collection, sunburn, divers brought up some things not available in intertidal, good chance to meet and talk with Chapman, Feldmann, Arisaki, etc.
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Lunch at Yacht Club, then with Drs Abbott, Wollaston, Papenfuss and Tokida to Kamakura to see Great Buddha and a Shinto shrine with 1000 year old Ginkgo tree, both very beautiful.
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Then back to train with 1 minute to spare, had pleasant talk on way back with several of Dr. Arasaki’s graduate students including S.H. Kwon of South Korea, Mahn Bhovichitra of Thailand (name reversed), and Masao Ohno of Japan; to biology lab at Sophia University to preserve collection, was given additional material from near Enoshima by Makoto Yoshizaki, invited by Dr. Arasaki’s students to visit laboratory at Tokyo University, had very pleasant time, refreshments and Japanese candy, saw lab with excellent library, herbarium of Okamura and Arasaki, was given some herbarium specimens by Masao Ohno, very appreciative, told them about Faith, Mr. Kwon especially interested, gave pamphlet.
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University of Tokyo
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Returned to hotel and to bed. Finally received manuscript of Germany paper, good but late as expected. Also at lunch given herbarium specimen (one for each present) from type locality. Also met John Sieburth who was in Antarctica with Dr. Neushul.
Wednesday 31 August 1966 – recorded Agnes Alexander
Rested in morning, then downtown to American Express for $200 travellers cheques, then tried again to get light meter for camera, with no success. To Jikei Hospital for another wonderful afternoon with Agnes Alexander, recorded more of her stories with Barbara Sims (prison in Philippines, opening of Hokkaido), what a great privilege to be with Agnes; afterwards Mrs. Sims explained her serious condition (leg healed, but very bad heart, with frequent heart attacks – under constant medication to dilate – is getting best of care). Then visited McHenrys (both generations), went with older McHenrys, the Sims, and Col. and Mrs Walsh to a Chinese dinner after the Sims house, Col. Sims has a fantastic hi-fi system, best I have ever heard, he and Walsh’s are not Baha’i. Returned to Tokyo with McHenrys, discussed plans for my trip to Korea, will probably go to southern islands where Mr. Samandari cannot go, could also collect, warned about getting sick; learned Taiwan still not notified of my coming.
Thursday 1 September 1966
Up early for botany papers, Chara, Abbott, Hollenberg and Wollaston, all good.
To bookstore, bought Arasaki’s book and an old French book on cyptogams in medicine, then lunch. Izzy told me she found a Nikon light meter, I went down to store to order one but they were not sure if they could get one even in a month, went next to Nikon office, they had none is stock, were not encouraging; saw marvelous portable microscope $150:00, was sent to photo store, decided to get both light meter and camera body, would take 1 week to convert mine, cost $137.00, about what light meter would cost in the U.S., will probably sell old camera and light meter when I return, am now running low on money from unexpected expenditures. Returned to hotel exhausted, sorted accumulated material, will be expensive to ship, what about cameras and stamps? Ruth Walbridge gave me some things to take to a pioneer in Taiwan. Watched tourist movies at hotel in evening. Starting to think about possibilities of pioneering after urgings by Mrs Sims and Ruth, but draft is complicating factor; got notice at Congress about two new universities opening in South Seas, sounds like the kind of place I would like to go.
Friday 2 September 1966
Attended Botany section, papers on mycology; had pleasant chat with Dr E.J.H. Corner about relationship of fungi and algae, he recommended book by Church, of Oxford, and his own as controversial point of view. After papers had lunch with Dr Jens Clausen and Miss Hutchins, then to American Express for another $200 in travellers cheques, returned to hotel, mailed package with abstracts, also took accumulated papers, books, cameras, etc. to shipping office in the hotel to be shipped home, also seaweeds collected, started packing, dinner at sukiyaki place in hotel, then watched free travel movies and to bed.
Saturday 3 September 1966 – end Congress, visit to Agnes Alexander
To closing session of Congress; there were more than 6,000 scientists here, sat with Wollaston, Abbott, Papenfuss, Starr, Nelson and Clausen. Then back to hotel, finished packing, lunch in Chinese restaurant, then by taxi to hospital for last visit to Agnes Alexander; she is truly a gem without price, she told more wonderful stories, I almost cried when I finally had to leave, said a healing prayer outside and returned to hotel, quick dinner, then to Baha’i Center for fireside, there must have been 10 non-Baha’is there, one American; I was asked to speak, was translated into Japanese, very time-consuming, later portions held entirely in Japanese.
Sunday 4 September 1966 – Marine Parks Symposium
Left early by bus for Tokyo station; there are 150 people on Marine Parks Symposium, boarded “Hitachi” world’s fasted train, very pleasant ride to Nagoya at 124 mph except for ear trouble in tunnels, saw much of countryside.
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At Nagoya, taken by bus to Inuyama, passing Nagoya Castle, in Inuyama, hotel is near Inuyama Castle and river.
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Inuyama Castle
I am rooming with Lew Eldridge, a young invertebrate systematist from Guam; after lunch had papers and film on marine parks, presently possible, with some interesting discussion; brief rest, then reception sponsored by the Governor of Aichi Prefecture, a fantastic spread of food on beautifully-decorated tables, chance to talk with many people, then presented with gifts of fan and cuff links by prefecture. At 8:00 we boarded long boats in the river, with paper lanterns and tatami mats, and were poled out to watch fishermen with cormorants, each bird on a string tied around its gullet so could not swallow fish, which were attracted by fire in an iron basket, also platform boat with dancing girls, etc. Afterwards fireworks in our honor, then returned; some members have had quite a lot to drink; the local townspeople lined the river bank to watch us, seemed ironic to be a tourist attraction.
Monday 5 September 1966
Awakened by hotel loudspeaker at 6:00, breakfast with Dr. Gregorio Velasquez (Philippines) algologist, and his wife (parasitologist), photographed Inuyama Castle, etc.
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Then by bus to Nagoya; the whole hotel staff came out to see us off with a big sign “Sayonara”, also given copy of group picture taken yesterday. Boarded hydrofoil in Nagoya harbor, sat with Drs Pappenfuss and Starr, transferred to sightseeing boat to Shinojima Island, no space on glass-bottomed boat, then to Toshijima Island, saw some of underwater flora, collection brought on board included Eisenia arborea, Gelidium sp., Codium fragile, Sargassum sp and an unidentified red a little like Dictyopteris in shape.
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Continued on to Toba Kowakien Hotel on a promontory with spectacular view of oyster culture areas.
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I am rooming with Dr R Dietz of Virginia (D.C.). Evening reception with governor of prefecture, I was asked to meet mayor of Toba City, sister city of Santa Barbara, another talk with Dr Hirose, etc. also Elisabeth Venrick who was in algae class at Friday Harbor last summer, movie cancelled for lack of spare bulb, Governor gave us pearl pendants.
General Notes
The countryside of Japan is intensely cultivated with farm houses and towns at frequent intervals; main crop is rice with some taro, etc. Farmhouses are very attractive, often with unpainted sides and elaborate tile roofs, temples are frequent. The trees, even in the wild, grow just as one might imagine in Japan. The scenery is spectacular, no wonder the Japanese love beauty. Most houses have a garden, no matter how small. In the city this may be reduced to a few planters on the sidewalk, or carefully tended plants around the base of a street tree. The people are extremely friendly, always anxious to help.
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Tuesday 6 September 1966
Papers in morning, Dr. Dawson’s paper read as memorial by Dr. Coolidge, with Dr Abbott’s slides; Dr. Arasaki’s paper was cut short and slides omitted, because too much time previously allotted to discussion; discussion very interesting, many problems involved in marine parks. I would like to write article on ocean development for International Development Review. After lunch, bus to Toba City and Pearl Island, rather too touristy.
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Then across peninsula through beautiful countryside to Government Pearl Lab, good displays, etc., another spectacular view, returned to hotel.
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Had pleasant chat with Dr Arasaki and Dr Lewin; bought some commercial seaweed products. Interesting but rather unscientific movies in evening, Dill on deep submersible in Southern California.
Wednesday 7 September 1966
By bus along skyline in Ise-Shima Park, but too hazy, then to Ise Shrine, magnificent but simple, with beautiful trees.
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Lunch at seaside near “wedded rocks”. Then by train to Shirahama, much beautiful scenery, sat with Pappenfuss, Starr, Nelson, etc.
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At Shirahama to Pacific Hotel with beautiful view, everyone given a yukata (robe) by governor, bathed in Japanese fashion in communal hotspring bath (but sexes separate), then kimono party with governor, dancing geishas, etc. quite lively with help of saki, afterwards movies on prefecture, then scientific, Arasaki’s slides (without Arasaki) and my movie on kelp forests, most people had left, was very late, but was well received, got several loan requests (Dr Ino, etc); strange to be giving paper in a kimono. To bed in a Japanese style room, bedding too short, but otherwise alright.
Thursday 8 September 1966
Visited aquarium and botanic garden, after on glass bottom boat ride in Shirahama harbor, very interesting but sparse, excellent aquarium.
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Lunch at botanic garden, then walked around Seto Marine Lab with Dr Pappenfuss.
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Bus to train, then to Osaka, again bus to castle grounds for reception by mayor.
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Then on to Kyoto. Phycologists dined together, Velasquezs, Abbott, Pappenfuss, Wollaston, Feldmanns, Mrs Feldmann speaks only French; then talked later in evening with Dr Abbott, Dr Ilg and Dr C.M.Yonge, very interesting. On train today, Dr U Mokiyevsky of Moscow, who had complemented me on film, gave me small Moscow pin.
Friday 9 September 1966
Breakfast with Pappenfuss, Abbott, Wollaston, then to JAL office with Abbott and Feldmanns to reconfirm, returned to hotel with Mrs Feldmann. To gardens by taxi with Drs Ilg, Yonge, Abbott, Wollaston and Feldmanns, first Ryoan-ji, very serene and beautiful, then Tenryu-ji, also very beautiful.
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After quick lunch, went on special congress tour to Nara, saw deer, enormous Buddha in temple, pagoda, etc. all very impressive.
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Returned to Kyoto for reception sponsored by University of Kyoto at hotel, last chance to chat with many friends, said goodby to Pappenfuss, Abbott, Clausen, Feldmanns, Dr Feldmann invited me to visit him if I was in Paris.
Saturday 10 September 1966
Visited Nijo Castle across the street from the hotel before the tourists arrived, lovely screen paintings, beautiful gardens.
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Then by taxi to Co-Sai-ji Moss Gardens, very simple and serene.
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Then returned to hotel, quite tired today; rested, then shopping in hotel arcade after lunch, bought prints, jewels, etc. as gifts; repacked, sorted out everything to mail and took to packaging room, cost about 5,000 yen=$15 to ship. No time or energy to see Baha’is, especially with language problem.
Sunday 11 September 1966 – to Sapporo
Up very early, checked out and to train station, took New Tokaido bullet train to Tokyo, travels 124 mph, too fast to take many pictures.
Took taxi to airport, tried to reconfirm flight to Korea at Northwest, but they had no record of reservation, so put me on waiting list, I was rather angry, but no time. Flew to Sapporo, met at airport by Jin Ito, Wako Ito (family of a foreign student, Ako Ito, who lived with our family in California for a few years and became a brilliant guitarist), and a friend who “speaks” English, was taken to downtown Sapporo, out to restaurant on coast for Genghis Khan lunch, and to University of Hokkaido.
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University of Hokkaido; me, Wako and Jin Ito at University of Hokkaido
Roads very bad, then up mountain behind Sapporo, superb view including smoking volcano in the distance.
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Returned to Ito house, looked at picture albums of Ako, etc., talked about California, etc., then superb Japanese dinner; after dinner I was taken to new Japanese hostel across the street to spend the night, pillow was buckwheat husks.
Monday 12 September 1966
Breakfast at hostel, owner raises yorkshire terriers; to Ito’s, saw Jin Ito’s paintings and reproductions on cover of local magazine, also Wako’s etchings; house was built by Mr Ito, is small, now rather run down, he plans to build another next year. With Itos to visit Mr. Tehrani, pioneer at the Sapporo Baha’i Center, just 3 blocks away; he is a wonderful person, has made great sacrifices to stay in Sapporo, is lonely I think; had pleasant talk, tea, looked at pictures, established good contact with the Ito’s, returned to the Ito’s.
Sapporo Baha'i Center with Mr. Tehrani and Itos
Then left by very rough road to Lake Toya, beautiful lake, insular volcano with islands in middle, on one side is a volcanic peak only 34 years old and still steaming.
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To nice hotel and lakeside spa with Ito’s, excellent Japanese dinner including much raw fish, seaweed, etc., then with Mr Ito to Japanese hot spring bath; there was a separate bath for ladies, but while we were there several women came in and joined us; after bath watched sumo wrestling on TV and had a long fireside discussion on the Faith, then to bed. There are about 500 Baha’is on Hokkaido, including about 100 Ainu.
Tuesday 13 September 1966
Breakfast: rice, nori and cooked onion tops in soy sauce, dried bracken stems, potato, a root jelly (cognac) in soy sauce, raw herring and shredded radish, nori dipped in soy sauce and served with rice, salt salmon, fishmeal cake and sour dried plum, soup with bean curd, fried bean curd, pickles and cabbage, and tea. Then walked down to lake front to enjoy view; left Toya for coast, first to Uno? Bay, visited fisheries research station doing experimental work in algal cultivation, several tanks of conchocelis stage (some seaweeds have one stage in their life cycle with microscopic filaments boring into shells), also some Undaria germlings, interesting talk with researchers.
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Then drove to Muroran via rough road.
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Via rough road to Hokkaido University Marine Laboratory in beautiful setting on Muroran Peninsula; Dr Abbott had visited previous day; Dr. Nakamura was in Sapporo but Dr Tatewaki showed us around lab, excellent facilities including 6 large culture rooms set for different seasonal and depth conditions, cultures of many organisms including Scytosiphon, Cutleria, Petalonia, etc., several pure cultures including Monostrema, met several graduate students, including one working on Dictyota (related to the seaweed I was studying).
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Lunch in Muroran, then to Shiraoi to see new Baha’i Center, very attractive nine-sided building built by Ainu Baha’is, total cost $300, met several Ainu Baha’is including Mr Umezaki, Auxiliary Board Member, Ito’s served as translators, got some more Baha’i teachings.
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Me at Shiraoi Baha'i Center
The Shiraoi Baha'i Center was dedicated on 21 August, three weeks before my visit, in the presence of Hand of the Cause Mr. Samandari, whom I had met in Tokyo.
Then to Lake Shikotsu but rained most of the time there.
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Roads in Hokkaido are either very good or extremely terrible. Said good-by to Ito’s at airport and thanked them for being such wonderful hosts, flew to Tokyo, by taxi to hotel, got message from Barbara Sims and call from McHenry’s in Korea about changes in my plans, they had already made new plane reservations to southern Korea; I cancelled Seoul flight, to bed exhausted.
Wednesday 14 September 1966 – to South Korea, Cheju do (Island)
Another call from Barbara Sims, she still had not sent tapes of Agnes Alexander, I asked her to do so; more information on Korean trip; also she had notified Taiwan at last; asked me to check on John Huston’s problems. Breakfast, then rushed to Japan Airlines office to get new tickets (another $14.60), hurried on bus to catch plane, at airport was switched to a later plane that arrived earlier, flew to Fukuoka (Kyushu is.), then after one hour through customs, to Pusan, South Korea
Wednesday 14 September 1966 – to South Korea, Cheju do (Island)
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To Pusan, South Korea; was rushed through customs, met by Auxiliary Board Member Mr. Yang Jae Ho, and barely made plane to Cheju Island, landed at 5:00. Checked on bus and boat schedules to Chin do, will have to leave tomorrow instead of Friday because only boat Thursday. By crowded bus (30 people in space for 16) across island (1 ½ hours) but too late to catch bus to Baha’i community expecting us, dinner at 9:00 and to bed at tourist hotel in Sogwipu.
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Mr. Yang is a wonderful man, speaks good English, could not survive without him as almost no one speaks English. I have too much baggage for this kind of trip but no alternatives. Was warned by McHenrys to be careful with food, eat only rice, fresh fruit, hard boiled eggs,tea; especially no vegetables or pork; had beef, rice, tea for dinner. Cheju Island is beautiful volcano, highest in Korea, and probably quite recent; coastline is beautiful and rugged, with occasional deep canyons and waterfalls falling into the sea; primitive but clean, roads only occasionally paved; houses of lava rocks and mud or cement, mostly with thatched roof held down with ropes.
Thursday 15 September 1966 Cheju do, then to Chin do
Up early, not much for breakfast, by crowded bus to Hwason, one of three LSAs on island, met secretary of LSA, very nice school teacher, but as this is festival time, others were all out cutting grass on ancestor’s graves, spent about ½ hour talking (mostly by Mr. Yang). I am obviously a curiosity, as many children stand in a circle around me and stare. I am sorry that I could not have more time with the Baha’is here. Returned to Sogwipo, waved at some Baha’is as we passed, Mr. Yang almost broke his neck when he struck the ceiling at one bump; I am given special consideration as an American and because my long legs do not fit well in such a bus, transferred to another bus for the trip to Cheju City. Mr. Yang was sick (intestinally) twice this morning (for the first time), but I am OK so far despite lack of food and poor sleep. On the way over the mountain we were stopped and searched by armed troops searching for recently reported Communist spies. Lunch at last – 1:00 at tourist hotel (hamburger steak with fried egg, rice and tea), then to harbor for 4:00 boat to Chin do (Chin Island). As an American, I was the only man not searched by soldiers looking for spies from North Korea. Met one Baha’i, professor at local university.
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By small ship 2nd class (3rd class abominable) to Chin do, where ship stopped in harbor, we got into native scow, were sculled to shore in complete darkness; after one hour wait, by jeep taxi to main city, only one with electricity (7pm to 5am), spent night in 4th class hotel (only one available), slept on thin pad on floor in room with paper-thin walls (literally), sanitary facilities very rudimentary [shared with pigs].
Friday 16 September 1966 Chin-do then to Mokpo
Breakfast (hard boiled eggs and rice) at “hotel”, then to modern tea room, met some Baha’is; meeting at 10:00 but since we were a day early, only 5 LSA members and 2 youth present, Baha’is include owner of newspaper, secretary of school, agriculture teacher, etc.
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Baha'is of Chin do
"hotel" sanitary facilities
I gave talk about meeting many Baha’is, importance of educating children, science and religion, then they served enormous lunch of which I only dared eat small amount; then to bus station, where 40 children gathered to stare at me while waiting for bus, bus to boat, by old wooden boat through beautiful waterways and islands, 3 hours to Mokpo on mainland.
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To Mokpo on mainland; changed money, then checked in at best hotel, just remodelled, no hot water, telephone, lights not working well, room light switch in hall, Western beds but Korean bedding, comforter and buckwheat husk pillow, rat ran out of room as we entered, could be heard all night in ceiling; “Dinner” at hotel “Restaurant” (meat, rice, tea), then by small boat across harbor to Koho Island which has 180 adults, 320 children, all Baha’i, but not very active, unable to organize meeting, so “dinner” (rice) and talked with chairman of LSA (richest man on island), then returned by small boat to Mokpo at night through swift currents (rather frightening); I talked with Mr. Yang about problems in Korean communities like Koho, difficult to solve; walked downtown, then to bed.
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Saturday 17 September 1966 to Kwang ju
Walked downtown to visit seaweed wholesalers, one whole street plus many other shops, much Undaria, etc. very impressive.
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Back to hotel for breakfast (eggs, toast, tea), then waited for Baha’is to arrive for meeting, two Baha’is from Koho came, LSA chairman and one other; I talked about following Baha’i laws, functioning and responsibilities of LSA teaching children, deepening activities, etc., seemed to be of some value; lunch of egg sandwiches, then by bus to Kwang ju, three hours of fantastic vibration, passed Korean funeral, typical villages.
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To Kwang ju Tourist Hotel, tries to be modern and Western in a Korean sort-of-way, dining room very modern but… Evening meeting with 3 Baha’is including medical student from university here, Cho Chin Sup, who would like to know about college activities in America, I talked mostly about teaching and college activities, and importance of youth.
Sunday 18 September 1966 - to Seoul
Up early – said good-by, with many thanks to Mr. Yang Jae Ho, auxiliary board member who accompanied me and served as translator. He is a wonderful teacher and Baha’i, has made many sacrifices for the Faith. Breakfast in dining room at 8:00 – waiters were mopping the floor, no tables set – was served by waiter in t-shirt - cat wandered up to me and meowed during meal, was thrown behind counter by waiter. I am so thankful to see a western toilet again. Had another brief talk with Mr. Cho. Then to airport and by DC3 to Seoul. Met at the airport by Lt. Cho Ching Yoong? and 4 other young Baha’is, who escorted me by bus to Hotel Chosun, which is a fabulous “Korean Victorian” relic. Had excellent dinner, then taken by Lt. Cho to Baha’i Center. Many young Baha’is at Center; also Mr. Kim Yong Yun and Mr. Kim Chang Zim of NSA. I talked about youth activities, esp. in America, since they are just organizing youth committee. Very friendly discussion followed. Met Eugene Schreiber; also talked on phone with Col. McHenry, who could not come. There are now about 6,000 Baha’is in Korea – 500 declarations last month.
Monday 19 September 1966 – to Taipei
Had excellent breakfast. Waited for a call from John McHenry III, but it did not come. Tried to change plane reservations in Germany, but they could not do it. Went to post office, bought 4 of each stamp, but only commemoratives. Regular issues were at another counter, and I did not think that I had time to get them. Met Gene Schneider at hotel, checked out ($20.00), and checked bags. To lunch with Gene at 8th Army compound, very nice to have American food again. Gene is a wonderful person – is pioneering in Korea under less than desirable conditions, but will be only American when McHenrys leave later this year. Called to thank John McHenry III and his mother. Returned to hotel and bus to airport. Went through interminable customs, then by plane to Tokyo. Rushed to catch connection, then flew to Taipei with one hour stop in Okinawa.
Monday 19 September 1966 – to Taipei
Was met at the airport by some of the Baha’is, taken to the Grand Hotel, a sprawling private hotel build by Mme Chiang Kai-shek, and to bed.
Tuesday, 20 September 1966
Breakfast at hotel, changed money, reconfirmed next flight, mailed letters, etc. Then met by John Huston and Tyshon Clark, two Baha’i pioneers, and taken, after a few errands, to Baha’i Center. John speaks fluent Chinese, including several dialects. Tyshon is just here temporarily from the Philippines while renewing her visa. At center, met Abbie Maag, resident Baha’i pioneer, and Mr. and Mrs. Dean, newly arrived from India, etc. Dr. Dean has a Ph.D. in clinical psychology, but has given that up to pioneer, is now earning very little recording english scripts. Delicious spaghetti lunch at center cooked by Tyshon. Talked with John Huston about his problems. Went downtown with John and Tyshon on errands, met several attractive young Baha’is. There are about 50 Baha’is in Taipei, but only a few are active. Life is very hard for the pioneers here. Dinner at center, evening of talk with pioneers, then back to Grand Hotel and to bed.
Wednesday 21 September 1966 – to Taichung
Up, checked out, and to Baha’i Center. Went downtown with John and Tyshon, left Tyshon off, ran errands. Stopped for lunch at small cafe, had interesting talk with Chinese language educator at next table. Then with John Huston to train station, by train to Taichung, beautiful scenery, but cloudy and some rain.
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Arrived in time to catch bus to Tung Wha where John teaches an English class with several Baha’is. I helped with class, spoke some on Faith. Also had a brief meeting with the Baha’is. Returned to Taichung at midnight, had Chinese dinner, then stayed at hotel where John works.
Thursday 22 September 1966 – to Tainan
Talked with John again about his problems. Went together to visit a Baha’i who is a Doctor of Acupuncture (sticking people with needles to stimulate nerves, cure diseases). Discussed basis of Chinese medicine. He invited us to lunch in his home, plain, but very good. Said good-by to John who has done wonders here because of his mastery of the languages (and is only 23). By train to Tainan.
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Met at station by Charles Duncan, Suleimanis, etc. and taken to Baha’i Center, which is a very beautiful building designed by a Baha’i architect. Also met Yankee Leong of Maylasia, who is traveling with Charles and Steve Garagus(?), whom I met in Tokyo. Had pleasant conversation, visited beautiful university campus near Center, where there are three Baha’i professors.
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Then excellent American dinner cooked by Charles and Mrs. Suleimani. After dinner about 20 Baha’is and close contacts gathered. (They were only notified of my coming this morning.) I gave rather rambling talk of no great distinction. Then to spend night with Mr. and Mrs. Robert Bush, since Center was full.
Taiwan is very much like Hawai’i, with beautiful countryside and many similar trees and crops. Most buildings built of brick, and factories are scattered rather than all in cities.
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Most of the teaching work is still done by pioneers, especially young people like John and Charles.
Friday 23 September 1966 – return to Tokyo
Breakfast with Bushs. Said farewell at station to Suleimanis, Mrs. Bush and one of professors. By train to Taipei with Charles Duncan and Yankee Leong. Arrived in 5 hours, to Baha’i Center by taxi. Had another pleasant chat with Tyshon Clark; she is the kind of girl I would like to marry. Took picture and said good-by to Abbie Maag and the Deans. Long farewell at airport to Charles Duncan and Tyshon.
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By Thai International Airlines to Tokyo.
Friday 23 September 1966 – return to Tokyo
By Thai International Airlines to Tokyo; flight rough because of storm. Met very nice boy from Bangkok on his way to college in the U.S. By bus to Marunouchi Hotel, and to bed.
Saturday 24 September 1966 – last visit to Agnes Alexander, flight to Germany
Up late. Repacked and mailed a package of papers. Phoned Barbara Sims and explained situation with John Huston r.e. draft. She has still not mailed the tapes of Agnes Alexander, said she might do it next week. Checked out of hotel. I was unable to exchange extra airline ticket for Korea. Went for a last visit to Agnes Alexander. Ruth Walbridge was also there. She was wonderful as usual, is very interested in food from the sea. After a wonderful afternoon with her (Ruth read Gary Morrison’s poem to her), she gave me a rose petal from Adrianople. I almost cried, kissed her on leaving.
Rose petal from Baha'u'llah's house in Adrianople
Had dinner with Ruth and several NSA members: Barbara Sims, Philip Marengella, Dr. Momtazi, Dr.?(young japanese) and two other Persians. Then to airport in downpour.
Everywhere I go I am asked to stay and pioneer. Agnes asked me to stay in Japan, said I would stimulate teaching efforts. Wrote postcards to Keith (birthday), the Irwins, Sunny DeHoog. Then aboard Air France for polar route to Hamburg, leaving at 10:30. Dinner served. Sunrise about 3:00am, breakfast served. Landed in Anchorage about 4:00am (10:00am Oct24 local time).
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Ttook off at 5:30 Tokyo time. Sun soon set over barren islands of north Canada. Were served dinner, then movie, beautiful aurora borealis outside, passed near magnetic pole and Greenland, sunrise again. Landed in Hamburg about 2:30pm Tokyo time (6:30am tomorrow in Hamburg).
Sunday 25 September 1966 – arrival in Hamburg
Arrived 6:30am in Hamburg (but 2:30pm my time). By bus to Hotel Atlantik, given rather too expensive room $15.00 with lovely view of a lake? Breakfast, then spent most of the day in a daze. Walked for a while along the shore, etc. It is overcast and quite cold here. I am glad now I brought a wool suit. Tried to review my paper. To bed at 3:30, up groggily at 6:00 for dinner, then back to bed.
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First European Symposium on Marine Biology, Helgoland
Monday 26 September 1966
Up at 5:00, to pier, boarded ship for Helgoland at 6:30. Were given name tags, information for symposium on board, pleasant voyage, both breakfast and lunch on board. Met Dr. Kain (Jones) again, and her husband. Have not seen anyone else I know. Hamburg seemed like a very clean city. The harbor was very impressive and beautiful in an industrial sort of way.
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Port of Hamburg, leaving Hamburg
Arrived at Helgoland, which is surprisingly small.
My “hotel” is in waterland overlooking the harbor, “Haus am Meer”. I have a small “attic” room, but adequate. To school where symposium will be held, got further information, was greeted by Dr. Kinne, Director of Biologische Anstalt Helgoland.
He gave opening address. Then we toured laboratories – very nice – research displays, including Laminaria photosynthesis in situ continuous field light measurement, etc., living studies by Lüning, student.
Also met W. Dillard, American negro working on RNA synthesis in Acetabularia at Wilhelmshaven. Dinner alone, skipped informal gathering, and to bed.
Tuesday 27 September 1966
Interesting papers, simultaneous translation service very helpful. There are 250 scientists here from 25 countries. Met Dr. Bratterstrom of Norway, who will be in charge of next year’s symposium. Also R. Delepine, who works with J. Feldmann, and K. Lüning, a student at Helgoland working on algal ecology. Met Roland von Hentu(?), friend ot Larry Liddle working here. Lunch at hostel with Bratterstrom, etc. More papers. Dinner with Connie MacFarland of Halifax, discussed shop, she is planning a trip to Japan. Films in the evening.
Wednesday 28 September 1966
Several interesting papers, especially Russell on Ectocarpaceae. Lunch at hostel with P. Dixon, etc. Met P. Svendson working on diving studies of algal recolonization in Norway. Dinner with W.C. Austin, who was at Hopkins Marine Station when I was there, Teaching Assistant for spring course the following year. Then reception, talked with Dillard, Smith and Dent, MacFarland, etc.
Thursday 29 September 1966
Called Mrs. Ilse Hayd, Baha’i secretary in Hamburg, to arrange possible meeting after finally receiving a letter. Interesting paper by Bernard on autonomous measuring station. C. Monniot sends regards to Donald Abbott, fellow worker on Ascidians. Lunch with von Hentig, etc. More good papers. A reception, talked mostly with Dixon, Söderström. Then to dinner with Dixon, Kain, Jones, Smith, Dent and Söderström. Missed splash party. Also met R. Borojovic of Roscoff today. Pruned paper, then to bed.
Friday 30 September 1966
Good papers by Jones and Smith, Svendson unfortunately cancelled. Then my paper, seemed to go alright, complemented by Kinné. I was told by von Hartog after that there were some gasps at photos of facilities. Kain paper also good. More talks with Borojevic, Delepine. After lunch talked with several French men, they warmed to me after learning I could speak French. Delepine invited me to visit his lab in Paris on Tuesday. More good talks, especially food web. Taken out for an hour by boat but could not see too much of island. Dinner with R. Margalef of Barcelona, he suggested that I exchange reprints with J. Seoane, algologist at his institute. Showed Anacapa movie to large audience, seemed to be well received. F. Gessner of Kiel would like to buy a copy.
Saturday 1 October 1966 – Helgoland, Hamburg, Frankfurt
Skipped final sessions, packed, got airplane ticket ($20). Rained, then walked along top of island, but foggy.
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Checked about reprints – will be more information in six months. Thanked and said good-by to Dr. Kinné. Checked out, and by boat to other island (Dünne) and airport. Both islands are still pockmarked from bombing and demolition during WWII. Flew by 5 passenger light plane to Hamburg. Met at airport by Baha’is, Michael Randel, son of Aux. Board member, Rouhollah Yazhari, and girl who speaks good English. Saw McHenry Boatright [singer from Carmel Bach Festival] on street but no chance to say hello (could not remember his name until after he passed). Taken to excellent lunch at a Persian restaurant, then to Mr. Yazhari’s apartment, where other Baha’is gathered, several Persians and Ilse Heyd. Told some about my trip, had pleasant talk. There are about 50 Baha’is in Hamburg, including 10 youth, about 1,000 Baha’is in Germany, but approximately half are Persian. Returned to airport after an all-to-brief stay (but could not extend). Flew to Frankfurt, and to Frankfurter Hof hotel.
Sunday 2 October 1966 – visit to Baha’i Temple, Dr. Grossmann, to Cologne
Did nothing in morning, could not reach Baha’is, so arranged to rent car to visit the Temple. Today was the day that everything went wrong. Checked out of hotel and went to car rental office early to find it was closed for the afternoon. Called the hotel, they finally located one office with a car free (a man happened to be working late). After wandering deserted streets looking for a taxi (with all baggage), finally found one, went to rental office, got car, and off to Langenhein. After several wrong turns, finally arrived at Temple just in time for 3:00 service, about 100 people there. Temple is very nice inside, but concrete a little stark outside. Met Baha’is after service, met and talked with Hand of the Cause Dr. Grossmann, who is not too well. Then spoke briefly before a gathering of 33 Baha’is in new meeting room, as proposed in Temple. (I was first traveling teacher to speak there.) Drove to autobahn to airport but took wrong entrance, got a good part of the way to Köln before I could turn around, was almost out of gas, had only $8.00 in DM, could not get more because Sunday. Arrived at airport finally, turned in car, checked in for flight, and have a quick dinner. Flew to Köln (Cologne); Lufthansa lost my 2nd suitcase with all my film and papers in it. Also had no record of hotel reservation requested in Tokyo. There is a fair in Cologne and every hotel is full. Took bus to city center, went to Köln Verkehrsamt (Tourist Office), with large group of people looking for rooms. They finally found me one in a small hotel nearby ($2.00), clean and newly redecorated, but bed not very comfortable. To bed exhausted.
Monday 3 October 1966 – last morning in Germany, then to Paris
Up early (was very noisy), to railroad station, next to cathedral, breakfast and changed money, I am running out, may not have enough for stamps. Left hotel, checked bag at station, by taxi to Max Planck Institut, Köln Vogelsang, beautiful modern building in a country setting. Most work is on applied plant research for agriculture. Met Dr. Dieter Müller, much younger than I expected. He showed me his excellent facilities, present research on Ectocarpus, gave me Dictyota cultures in sealed ampoules. He then invited me to lunch at home with his wife and 2 children. He studied for a while at University of Pennsylvania. After lunch, talked further, then left, returned to center of town, photographed cathedral, then discovered role was not loaded properly, no photos of Dr. Grossmann or cathedral.
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Dinner at station, by bus to airport. My bag was found. Flew to Paris, sat with very short, very talkative young man, a commercial news photographer from Connecticut, at Photo Kinne in Cologne, told him a little about the Faith.
Monday 3 October 1966 – to Paris
Arrived in Paris, and to my hotel, but again Lufthansa had failed to get a reservation, had to walk several blocks to another, and to bed exhausted.
Tuesday 4 October 1966
Bath, then breakfast. Called Mr. Delepine, changed hotels, and to Faculté des Sciences, Laboratoire de la Biologie Végétale Marine. Met by Delepine, showed around, and introduced to the staff. There are many technicians, the lab is relatively self-supporting, with own classroom, library, etc. Met Dr (Mme) G. Feldmann, and she showed me her cultures, in large containers on erdschreiber with mechanical agitation, controlled temperature, but not spectacular. Sea water comes by train from Roscoff. Discussed algae with Delepine, his Antarctic work, Macrocystis, etc. Then to lunch together at Chinese restaurant, and returned to lab where I showed movie and slides of culture studies, with commentary in French (largely) before members of laboratory staff. Met Dr. J. Feldmann, only briefly as he had meetings to attend. The Laboratoire is in a new building with an excellent view of Paris. Talked with Mme Jeanne Gaillard, working on Dictyotales, especially Padina, taxonomy and other studies. Further discussions with René Delepine, who is Maître Assistant to “Le Patron” (Feldmann). Then he took me to go on a Bateau Mouche, but cancelled because of rain. To his apartment, met his wife and baby son, then excellent dinner with cream (optional) of watercress soup, etc., a pleasant evening discussing – saw pictures of Leningrad, etc., and after wonderful day, he returned me to my hotel. Delepine may come to the U.S. in 2-3 years when he finishes his thesis, to work with Mackenzie Lamb at Harvard.
On the way home from Germany, I flew over Greenland and took a few pictures.
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